Ingredients
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine: Skin-identical emulsifier for DMS creams
Posted by Lara Schimweg on
INCI:
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
lecithin
Effect: Skin-identical emulsifier
Tolerability: very good
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is a natural skin-identical emulsifier that is suitable for the formation of a derma membrane structure . It occurs naturally in our body and is a component of every human cell membrane. Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine can be obtained from plants such as soy or sunflower.
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine contains phospholipids , a subtype of fats (lipids) that make up about 75% of all cell membranes. Phospholipids have a water-loving head and two water-hating tails. This ingenious structure gives the molecule an emulsifying property, meaning it allows fat to combine with water.
If you want your skin to stay healthy and strong, you should always apply your skin's own emulsifiers (found in a cream or serum). Your skin's own emulsifiers also include Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate Citrate . These two are also found in your skin. Unlike foreign emulsifiers, which lay like a layer on the skin and can wash out fats, your skin's own emulsifiers weave themselves naturally into the skin's structure.
dermal membrane structure
The skin has a lamellar structure, also known as a derma membrane structure. The skin's own emulsifiers can integrate seamlessly into this structure. For this reason, creams with hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine are also called DMS creams . Thanks to a biomembrane, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is able to bind all fats and active ingredients and transport them better into the skin. This mechanism makes the skin barrier much stronger.
What is the difference between Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin and Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Actually, all three INCI names refer to the same ingredient. The only difference is the amount of phospholipids that naturally occur in the emulsifier. Depending on which active ingredients are in a product and what texture it has, one or the other emulsifier makes sense.
Hydrogenated Lecithin/Lecithin
Hydrogenated lecithin or lecithin contains only about 30% phospholipids.
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine contains significantly more phospholipids and is therefore one of the most expensive emulsifiers. This is why you will rarely find this emulsifier in cosmetic products.
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, obtained from sunflower, is the highest quality (skin's own) emulsifier.
encapsulation of active ingredients
Hydrogenated Lecithin/Lecithin, like Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, can be used to encapsulate active ingredients .
Liposomes are small spheres that are surrounded by a phospholipid bilayer and contain an active ingredient in order to transport it deeper and more precisely into the skin with the help of a fatty shell. This is called encapsulation.
Encapsulation with hydrogenated lecithin/lecithin or hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is particularly useful when active ingredients such as vitamin C or niacinamide are to be transported deeper into the skin. If these are on the INCI list, you can be sure that your active ingredients will penetrate deeper into the skin.
Products with Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Products with (Hydrogenated) Lecithin
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