Shopping Cart


Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine: Skin-identical emulsifier for DMS creams

Posted by Lara Schimweg on
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine kann aus Sonnenblumen hergetellt


Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine

Hydrogenated lecithin


Effect: Skin-identical emulsifier

Tolerability: very good

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is a natural skin-identical emulsifier suitable for forming a derma membrane structure . It occurs naturally in our bodies and is a component of every human cell membrane. Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine can be obtained plant-based from soy or sunflower.

Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine contains phospholipids , a subtype of fats (lipids), which make up around 75% of the main component of all cell membranes. Phospholipids have one water-loving head and two water-hostile tails. This sophisticated structure gives the molecule an emulsifying property, meaning it allows fat to combine with water.

If you want your skin to stay healthy and strong, you should always apply skin-derived emulsifiers (found in a cream or serum). The skin's own emulsifiers also include Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate Citrate . These two also occur in the skin itself. In contrast to emulsifiers that are foreign to the skin, which lie like a layer on the skin and can wash out fats, the skin's own emulsifiers naturally weave themselves into the skin's structure.

Derma membrane structure

The skin has a lamellar structure, also called derma membrane structure. The skin's own emulsifiers can integrate seamlessly into this structure. For this reason, creams with hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine are also called DMS creams . Thanks to a biomembrane, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine is able to bind all fats and active ingredients and transport them better into the skin. Through this mechanism, the skin barrier is built up even stronger.

What is the difference between Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin and Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Actually, all 3 INCI names refer to the same ingredient. The only difference is the amount of phospholipids that naturally occur in the emulsifier. Depending on which active ingredients are in a product and what texture it has, one or the other emulsifier makes sense.

Hydrogenated Lecithin/Lecithin

Hydrogenated lecithin or lecithin only contains about 30% phospholipids.

Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine

Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine contains significantly more phospholipids and is therefore one of the most expensive emulsifiers. That's why you rarely find this emulsifier in cosmetic products.

Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, obtained from sunflower, is the highest quality (skin's own) emulsifier.

Encapsulation of active ingredients

Hydrogenated lecithin/lecithin, like hydrogenated phosphatidylcholines, can be used to encapsulate active ingredients .

Liposomes are small spheres that are surrounded by a phospholipid bilayer and carry an active ingredient in order to transport it deeper and more specifically into the skin using a fatty envelope. This is called encapsulation.

Encapsulation with hydrogenated lecithin/lecithin or hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine makes sense, especially when active ingredients such as vitamin C or niacinamide are delivered deeper into the skin. If these are on the INCI list, you can be sure that your active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin.

Products with Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Products with (Hydrogenated) Lecithin

Older Post Newer Post


Leave a comment

Please note, comments must be approved before they are published