Ingredients
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine: Skin-identical emulsifier for DMS creams
Posted by Lara Schimweg on
INCI:
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Lecithin
Effect: Skin-identical emulsifier
Compatibility: very good
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is a natural, skin-identical emulsifier suitable for forming a dermal membrane structure . It occurs naturally in our bodies and is a component of every human cell membrane. Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine can be derived from soy or sunflower.
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine contains phospholipids , a type of fat (lipid) that makes up about 75% of all cell membranes. Phospholipids have a hydrophilic head and two hydrophobic tails. This sophisticated structure gives the molecule emulsifying properties, allowing it to bind fat and water.
To keep skin healthy and strong, it's essential to always apply skin-identical emulsifiers (found in creams and serums). These include glyceryl stearate and glyceryl stearate citrate , both of which occur naturally in the skin. Unlike artificial emulsifiers, which can form a layer on the skin and wash away natural oils, skin-identical emulsifiers integrate seamlessly into the skin's structure.
Dermal membrane structure
The skin has a lamellar structure, also known as the dermal membrane structure. The skin's own emulsifiers can seamlessly integrate into this structure. Creams containing hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine are therefore also called DMS creams . Thanks to its biomembrane structure, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is able to bind all fats and active ingredients and transport them more effectively into the skin. This mechanism significantly strengthens the skin barrier.
What is the difference between hydrogenated lecithin, lecithin, and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine?
Actually, all three INCI names refer to the same ingredient. The only difference is the amount of phospholipids, which occur naturally in the emulsifier. Depending on the active ingredients in a product and its texture, one emulsifier or another makes more sense.
Hydrogenated Lecithin/Lecithin
Hydrogenated lecithin, or lecithin in general, contains only about 30% phospholipids.
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine contains significantly more phospholipids and is therefore one of the most expensive emulsifiers. That's why you'll rarely find this emulsifier in cosmetic products.
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, derived from sunflower, is the highest quality (skin-compatible) emulsifier.
Encapsulation of active ingredients
Hydrogenated lecithin/ lecithin, like hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, can be used for encapsulating active ingredients .
Liposomes are tiny spheres surrounded by a phospholipid bilayer and containing an active ingredient. This active ingredient is transported deeper and more precisely into the skin using a fatty shell. This process is called encapsulation.
Especially when active ingredients like vitamin C or niacinamide need to penetrate deeper into the skin, encapsulation with hydrogenated lecithin/lecithin or hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is beneficial. If these ingredients are listed in the INCI list, you can be sure that your active ingredients will reach deeper into the skin.
Products containing hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Products containing (hydrogenated) lecithin
← Older Post Newer Post →
0 comments