Ingredients
Bakuchiol: The natural alternative to retinol
Posted by Lara Schimweg on
INCI: Bakuchiol
Effect: anti-inflammatory, builds collagen, antioxidant
Tolerability: very good
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a plant-based healthy aging ingredient. It is extracted from the seeds of the Babchi plant and is considered a more tolerable alternative to retinol . Studies have shown that bakuchiol works similarly to retinol by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin texture. However, bakuchiol does not cause the typical side effects of retinol.
However, Bakuchiol is still in the shadow of Retinol. But its effects are impressive. It inhibits inflammation, reduces pimples and "blemishes", prevents hyperpigmentation (brown spots) and promotes collagen production. Bakuchiol is a particularly promising phyto-active ingredient for sensitive skin.
overview
Why we don’t use the term “anti-aging”
Our focus is on holistic health - both skin health and mental well-being. The term "anti-aging" gives the impression that aging is something negative. We see it differently. Instead, we place importance on keeping the skin healthy and strengthening it at any age. We want to promote positive body awareness and recognize natural processes such as aging as something valuable.
Effects of Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol helps improve the appearance of the skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and firming the skin. It protects against UV damage and free radicals, which prevents premature aging, and reduces dark spots and uneven skin tone. The active ingredient also helps with acne, moisturizes and reduces skin redness and irritation.
Has an antibacterial effect , even against the well-known P. acnes, the bacterium that is partly responsible for acne.
Healthy Aging: helps minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by smoothing and tightening the skin.
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Stimulates collagen production: This helps to improve skin elasticity and firmness. Specifically, it stimulates the production of collagen I, III and IV and at the same time inhibits the enzyme MMP, which breaks down our collagen. From the age of 25, skin collagen decreases. The more collagen there is in the skin, the firmer and smoother the skin is. This leads to fewer wrinkles. Unfortunately, collagen cannot simply be reapplied with cream. We have to take a detour and stimulate our body to receive more collagen or to produce it itself. To do this, you can use Bakuchiol alternately with vitamin C.
Protects against sun damage: Similar to vitamin C, bakuchiol prevents UV-induced photodamage.
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Reduces hyperpigmentation: Bakuchiol has a melanin-inhibiting effect, so it can reduce dark spots on the skin. It can help reduce hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, making the complexion appear more even.
Antioxidant properties: protects the skin from free radicals and environmental damage, counteracting premature skin aging.
Anti-inflammatory: has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce skin redness and irritation.
Moisturizing: also has a positive effect on the moisture of the skin and regulates aquaporin 3.
Bakuchiol compared to retinol
Bakuchiol is a very modern anti-aging ingredient, and for good reason, it is often chosen instead of retinol. It is not as effective. But unlike retinol, bakuchiol has no side effects .
Retinol is very well researched and therefore we know how potent it is. It has a similar effect on collagen.
In addition, there are skin conditions and living conditions in which retinol is not recommended.
Retinol is not suitable for:
pregnancy and breastfeeding
Neurodermatitis attacks with severe wounds and eczema
side effects of retinol
Retinol dries out the skin and the skin should not be overwhelmed with too high a concentration. The skin only gets used to retinol very, very slowly. Retinol originated in acne therapy. In severe cases, tretinoin (the most active form of retinol) is used. A positive side effect was skin rejuvenation. This is how retinol came into the beauty industry.
Today, cosmetic products contain different concentrations of retinol and, due to the strong side effects, a large number of derivatives. Derivatives are derivatives of a substance and are often more tolerable than the active ingredient. The skin has to convert the derivative into the ingredient in order for it to work. This means that the skin is not immediately confronted with the potent effect of the active ingredient. Derivatives are used to reduce side effects. Nevertheless, even retinol derivatives are still very potent and should not be underestimated.
If you use retinol or retinol derivatives, you must base your entire skincare routine on retinol to counteract the side effects. Your skincare routine must be significantly richer so that the skin barrier is not dried out too much.
Retinol cannot simply be combined with all acid peels and active ingredients . It is always better to use retinol alone in one step and spread the active ingredients over the other days. At the beginning, you should avoid the eyes and mouth area to avoid over-cared skin or perioral dermatitis .
Ideal application concentration of Bakuchiol
The optimal concentration of bakuchiol in skin care products is typically between 0.5% and 1% . Studies have shown that as little as 0.5% concentration can produce significant improvements in skin texture and firmness without irritating the skin. For more intense results, a concentration of up to 1% can be used. At 1%, bakuchiol also works against pimples and "blemishes."
This dosage offers a good balance between effectiveness and tolerability, even for sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol Tolerability
Bakuchiol is known for its high tolerability and is especially recommended for sensitive skin. Unlike retinol, which can often cause irritation, redness and dryness, bakuchiol rarely causes such side effects. It is ideal for people with sensitive skin, rosacea, atopic dermatitis and can also be used after perioral dermatitis. Even with daily use, it remains gentle on the skin while offering effective healthy-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. This combination makes bakuchiol an ideal choice for anyone looking for effective but mild skin care.
Are there any interactions?
In general, Bakuchiol is very compatible with other active ingredients. This makes Bakuchiol easy to use and safe to use compared to retinol.
It also works well with salicylic acid (BHA), which is ideal for people with acne.
Who is Bakuchiol suitable for?
Bakuchiol is a versatile active ingredient that is suitable for almost all skin types. It can also be used during pregnancy or breastfeeding. People with sensitive skin can particularly benefit because, unlike many other anti-aging ingredients such as retinol, bakuchiol does not cause irritation or redness. People with skin conditions such as rosacea, neurodermatitis, and perioral dermatitis also find bakuchiol to be a gentle and effective alternative that soothes and cares for their skin. In addition, bakuchiol is ideal for anyone who wants to reduce and prevent the signs of skin aging without resorting to aggressive ingredients. You can even use bakuchiol on oily or acne-prone skin because it has an anti-inflammatory effect and does not clog pores.
Bakuchiol in Pregnancy and Breastfeeding
Since retinol can harm the unborn child , many pregnant women look for alternatives. Bakuchiol is a good substitute here, as it does not have any of the negative side effects of retinol. Bakuchiol works in the skin cells in a similar way to retinol. It is a little less effective than retinol, as it does not irritate the skin.
Bakuchiol offers similar benefits to retinol, but is plant-based and considered safer and gentler for expectant and nursing mothers. Its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties support skin health without the potential risks of retinoids.
Did you know that all Xeno products are suitable during pregnancy and breastfeeding?
Bakuchiol for sensitive skin
Bakuchiol is particularly good for sensitive skin. It has a calming and anti-inflammatory effect, helping to soothe sensitive skin and strengthen its natural barrier.
At the same time, Bakuchiol promotes collagen production and improves the skin's appearance without stressing it.
Bakuchiol for acne
Bakuchiol works on acne and pimple-prone skin at different levels.
1% Bakuchiol reduces pimples . It downregulates 5α-reductase (sebum-controlling enzyme). Bakuchiol has an antibacterial effect, including against the well-known P. acnes bacteria.
Bakuchiol has an anti-inflammatory effect and inhibits fat oxidation in the skin. Fat oxidation occurs in everyone. But it is particularly fatal if the skin is prone to "blemishes" or acne. The sun's UV rays cause the skin's own fat (sebum) to break down (oxidize). The skin's own fat becomes comedogenic, which means it can cause pimples. The more fat breaks down, the more comedogenic the skin becomes. Since people with oily skin and oily combination skin in particular have to struggle with "blemishes", fat oxidation occurs more frequently here. Recent findings show that fat oxidation is one of the early triggers for acne.
By the way: There is one way to always protect yourself from fat oxidation: wear sunscreen every day.
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The combination of bakuchiol with salicylic acid (BHA) is ideal for people with acne.
However, pregnant and breastfeeding women should avoid synthetic salicylic acid. People who have very severe acne should discuss this with their dermatologist. In certain cases, low concentrations can make sense in washable products after consultation. If you want to be on the safe side, you can switch to natural salicylic acid. Natural salicylic acid from willow bark works in a similar way to synthetic salicylic acid. It also has an antibacterial effect, inhibits inflammation and reduces pimples and "blemishes".
Bakuchiol for Rosacea
Bakuchiol is proving to be a promising ingredient for people with rosacea. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, bakuchiol can effectively relieve redness and skin irritation.
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