Ingredients
Bakuchiol: The natural alternative to retinol
Posted by Lara Schimweg on
INCI: Bakuchiol
Effects: anti-inflammatory, builds collagen, antioxidant
Compatibility: very good
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a plant-based active ingredient in healthy aging products. It is extracted from the seeds of the babchi plant and is considered a more tolerable alternative to retinol . Studies have shown that bakuchiol works similarly to retinol by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin texture. However, bakuchiol does not cause the typical side effects of retinol.
Nevertheless, bakuchiol still remains in the shadow of retinol. Yet its effects are impressive. It inhibits inflammation, reduces pimples and blemishes, prevents hyperpigmentation (brown spots), and promotes collagen production. Bakuchiol is a particularly promising phytochemical for sensitive skin.
overview
Why we don't use the term "anti-aging"
Our focus is on holistic health – both skin health and mental well-being. The term "anti-aging" gives the impression that aging is something negative. We see things differently. Instead, we emphasize maintaining and strengthening healthy skin at every age. We want to promote a positive body image and recognize natural processes like aging as something valuable.
Effects of Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol helps improve the complexion by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and firming the skin. It protects against UV damage and free radicals, thus preventing premature aging, and diminishes dark spots and uneven skin tone. Furthermore, the active ingredient helps with acne, moisturizes, and reduces redness and irritation.
It has an antibacterial effect , including against the well-known P. acnes, the bacterium that is partly responsible for acne.
Healthy Aging: helps minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by smoothing and firming the skin.
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It stimulates collagen production: This contributes to improved skin elasticity and firmness. Specifically, it stimulates the production of collagens I, III, and IV while simultaneously inhibiting the enzyme MMP, which breaks down our collagen. Skin collagen begins to decline from the age of 25. The more collagen there is in the skin, the firmer and smoother the complexion. This leads to fewer wrinkles. Unfortunately, collagen cannot simply be replenished with creams. We have to take a different approach and stimulate our body to produce more collagen or to generate it itself. You can use bakuchiol alternately with vitamin C for this purpose.
Protects against sun damage: Similar to vitamin C, bakuchiol prevents UV-induced light damage.
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Reduces hyperpigmentation: Bakuchiol has a melanin-inhibiting effect, which can reduce dark spots on the skin. It can help diminish hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, resulting in a more even complexion.
Antioxidant properties: protects the skin from free radicals and environmental damage, thus counteracting premature skin aging.
Anti-inflammatory: possesses anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce skin redness and irritation.
Moisturizing: also has a positive effect on the skin's moisture and regulates aquaporin 3.
Bakuchiol compared to retinol
Bakuchiol is a very modern anti-aging ingredient, and for good reason, often chosen instead of retinol. It's not as potent, but unlike retinol, bakuchiol has no side effects .
Retinol is very well researched, and therefore we know how potent it is. It has a similar effect on collagen.
Furthermore, there are skin conditions and living situations in which retinol is not recommended.
Retinol is not suitable for:
Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Atopic dermatitis flare-ups with severe wounds and eczema
Side effects of retinol
Retinol dries out the skin, and the skin should not be overwhelmed with too high a concentration. The skin only adapts to retinol very, very slowly. Retinol originated in acne therapy. In severe cases, tretinoin (the most active form of retinol) is used. A positive side effect was skin rejuvenation. This is how retinol found its way into the beauty industry.
Today, cosmetic products contain varying concentrations of retinol, and due to its strong side effects, a multitude of derivatives are also available. Derivatives are products derived from a substance and are often better tolerated than the active ingredient. The skin must convert the derivative into the original substance for it to be effective. This way, the skin is not immediately exposed to the potent effects of the active ingredient. Derivatives are used to mitigate side effects. Nevertheless, even retinol derivatives are still very potent and should not be underestimated.
If you use retinol or retinol derivatives, you need to base your entire skincare routine on retinol to counteract the side effects. Your skincare products need to be significantly richer to prevent the skin barrier from becoming too dry.
Retinol shouldn't simply be combined with all acid peels and active ingredients . It's always better to use retinol alone in one step and spread the other active ingredients over the following days. Initially, you should avoid the eye and mouth area to prevent over-treating the skin or perioral dermatitis .
Ideal concentration of bakuchiol
The optimal concentration of bakuchiol in skincare products is typically between 0.5% and 1% . Studies have shown that even a concentration of 0.5% can significantly improve skin texture and firmness without irritating the skin. For more intensive results, a concentration of up to 1% can be used. At 1%, bakuchiol is also effective against pimples and blemishes.
This dosage offers a good balance between effectiveness and tolerability, even for sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol tolerability
Bakuchiol is known for its excellent tolerability and is especially recommended for sensitive skin. Unlike retinol, which can often lead to irritation, redness, and dryness, bakuchiol rarely causes such side effects. It is ideal for people with sensitive skin, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, and can even be used after perioral dermatitis. Even with daily use, it remains gentle on the skin while offering effective healthy-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. This combination makes bakuchiol an ideal choice for anyone seeking effective yet gentle skincare.
Are there any interactions?
Bakuchiol generally mixes very well with other active ingredients. This makes bakuchiol easy and safe to use compared to retinol.
It also works well with salicylic acid (BHA), which is ideal for people with acne.
Who is Bakuchiol suitable for?
Bakuchiol is a versatile active ingredient suitable for almost all skin types. It can also be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Those with sensitive skin can particularly benefit, as bakuchiol, unlike many other anti-aging ingredients such as retinol, does not cause irritation or redness. People with skin conditions such as rosacea, atopic dermatitis, or perioral dermatitis will also find bakuchiol to be a gentle and effective alternative that soothes and nourishes their skin. Furthermore, bakuchiol is ideal for anyone who wants to reduce and prevent the signs of aging without resorting to harsh ingredients. Even oily or acne-prone skin can use bakuchiol, as it has anti-inflammatory properties and does not clog pores.
Bakuchiol during pregnancy and breastfeeding
Because retinol can harm the unborn child , many pregnant women look for alternatives. Bakuchiol is a good substitute, as it has none of the negative side effects of retinol. Bakuchiol works similarly to retinol in skin cells. It is slightly less potent than retinol because it does not irritate the skin.
Bakuchiol offers similar benefits to retinol, but is plant-based and considered safer and gentler for pregnant and breastfeeding women. Its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties support skin health without the potential risks of retinoids.
Did you know that all Xeno products are suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding?
Bakuchiol for sensitive skin
Bakuchiol is particularly well-suited for sensitive skin. It has a calming and anti-inflammatory effect, helping to soothe sensitive skin and strengthen its natural barrier.
At the same time, bakuchiol promotes collagen production and improves the appearance of the skin without stressing the skin.
Bakuchiol for acne
Bakuchiol works on several levels to treat acne and skin prone to pimples.
1% bakuchiol reduces pimples . It downregulates 5α-reductase (a sebum-controlling enzyme). Bakuchiol has antibacterial properties, including against the well-known P. acnes bacterium.
Bakuchiol has anti-inflammatory properties and inhibits the oxidation of lipids in the skin. Lipid oxidation occurs naturally in everyone. However, it is particularly problematic when the skin is prone to blemishes or acne. The sun's UV rays cause the skin's own sebum to break down (oxidize). This sebum becomes comedogenic, meaning it can trigger pimples. The more sebum breaks down, the more comedogenic the skin becomes. Since people with oily and combination skin are particularly prone to blemishes, lipid oxidation is more prevalent in these skin types. Recent findings indicate that lipid oxidation is one of the early triggers of acne.
By the way: There is one thing that always protects you from fat oxidation: wear sunscreen daily.
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The combination of bakuchiol with salicylic acid (BHA) is ideal for people with acne.
Pregnant and breastfeeding women should avoid synthetic salicylic acid. People with very severe acne should consult their dermatologist. Low concentrations may be beneficial in certain cases, after consultation, in wash-off products. If you want to be absolutely certain, you can switch to natural salicylic acid. Natural salicylic acid from willow bark works similarly to synthetic salicylic acid. It also has antibacterial properties, inhibits inflammation, and reduces pimples and blemishes.
Bakuchiol for rosacea
Bakuchiol is proving to be a promising ingredient for people with rosacea. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, bakuchiol can effectively relieve redness and skin irritation.
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