Glycerin: An underrated all-rounder

Glycerin is a versatile ingredient that is used in many areas, from the food industry to cosmetics. However, glycerin plays a particularly important role in skin care because it has unique properties that benefit the skin. Glycerin occurs naturally in the skin and is therefore very well tolerated.

Glycerin, also called glycerol, is a trivalent, compatible moisturizing alcohol, not to be confused with monovalent, drying (drinking) alcohol. Glycerin can be obtained from vegetable or animal fats. It is a clear, odorless liquid. Glycerin has a hygroscopic effect, meaning it attracts moisture. This means that glycerin has a moisturizing effect on the skin. It is a natural component of the skin and is one of the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMF).

Although glycerin is often overshadowed by better-known ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, it offers a number of benefits that make it a true all-rounder in skin care. Don't be put off when some natural cosmetics brands try to scare you about glycerin by using claims such as "glycerin-free".

• Moisturizing: Glycerin binds water and thus preserves the moisture content of the skin. This leads to supple, plump and radiant skin. Glycerin is small compared to other moisturizers and can be absorbed very well into the deeper layers of the skin, so that they are well moisturized.
• Barrier-strengthening: Glycerin ensures that the cell membranes remain healthy and maintains the intracellular lipids (fats found in the cells). Very dry, flaky skin in particular benefits enormously from glycerin because it lacks a lot of moisture. The more glycerin in the skin, the stronger the skin barrier.
• Anti-inflammatory: Glycerin inhibits inflammation in the skin and reduces redness and irritation.
• Antibacterial: Glycerin has an antibacterial effect and can therefore help with constant "blemishes" and acne.
• Good for sensitive skin: Glycerin reduces the irritation potential of active ingredients or surfactants (washing substances).

Glycerin is a well-tolerated ingredient and is suitable for all skin types. It is very well tolerated by sensitive skin or for the care of skin diseases such as rosacea , neurodermatitis, etc.

However, glycerin (like all moisturizers) is not suitable for acute perioral dermatitis (over-cared skin). Only zero therapy helps here.

Unfortunately, there is always fear mongering marketing that demonizes glycerin. Then products are advertised as being "glycerin-free."

As you probably know, at Xeno we have one of the strictest lists of ingredients that we avoid. However, we still use glycerin in many products - why?

Claim: "Glycerin dries out the skin" - What is true?

Yes, a pure glycerin solution dries out the skin. However, you won't be able to buy one that easily.

There is no danger in a diluted solution - that is, glycerin in a skin care product. On the contrary: glycerin can be really good for dry, stressed skin.

The myth probably stems from the fact that no distinction is made between these two very different formulations.

Another reason for fear of glycerin is its incorrect use. Incorrect handling of a glycerin product, especially moisturizing serums, can lead to temporary drying of the skin.

Glycerin draws moisture from the depths of the skin into the upper layer of the skin, so that the horny layer (stratum corneum) is well moisturized

The stratum corneum is the outer barrier for your skin and ensures that the lower layers of skin are well protected. Your skin is only resilient if the stratum corneum is well moisturized.

If you don't apply a cream with fats over your serum with glycerin, the moisture in the air will evaporate. This is because the fats ensure that they keep the moisture in the skin like a coat, where it belongs.

This effect is possible with all water-based serums with moisturizers that are fat-free. Application errors can also lead to dry skin when using hyaluronic acid and other ingredients.

These problems often do not occur with a cream because a cream usually consists of moisturizers such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid and fats. The protective layer is already integrated, so to speak.

So next time, don't forget your cream after using a moisturizing serum, then glycerin and co. will work. Your skin will thank you with plenty of rest and a healthy skin barrier.

Claim: "High concentrations of glycerin are harmful to the skin"

Glycerin is usually used up to 10%. This is because glycerin is a very sticky ingredient. A serum with much more glycerin would no longer feel good on the skin. If that were the goal, it would need a lot of fillers or silicones to make the product easy to apply to the skin.

This amount of glycerin is not necessary for healthy moisturizing of the stratum corneum, even on sensitive skin. On the contrary, too much moisture would not be good because it would cause the stratum corneum to swell, which could potentially lead to peroral dermatitis.

An exception are medical creams for people with chronic, weeping, bleeding eczema and very severe neurodermatitis attacks that require treatment. These skin conditions benefit from glycerin concentrations of up to 30%, as the skin is chronically lacking moisture.

Glycerin may not be as fancy as other humectants, but you shouldn't demonize it with all these great skin-loving properties. And if you know how to use glycerin, you can achieve a lot with this moisturizer.

Fear mongering is a marketing strategy used in cosmetics advertising to unsettle customers and persuade them to buy products. This often involves making exaggerated or even false claims about the negative effects of certain ingredients on the skin or health. Or it is suggested in such a context.

Examples:

• "Skin care without glycerin"
  
• "Glycerin dries out the skin"
  
• "Parabens promote cancer!"

Fear mongering can cause anxiety and uncertainty in some customers, leading them to purchase unnecessary products.

Criticism: Fear mongering is heavily criticized by consumer advocates and ethicists because it is seen as a manipulative and unfair marketing strategy.

At Xeno, we don't believe in scaremongering marketing, but instead focus on education, including with this article on glycerin. This way, you can make a healthy decision for yourself with knowledge.