Glycerin: An underrated all-rounder

Glycerin is a versatile ingredient used in many sectors, from the food industry to cosmetics. However, it plays a particularly important role in skincare due to its unique, skin-friendly properties. Glycerin occurs naturally in the skin and is therefore very well tolerated.

Glycerin, also called glycerol, is a trihydric, well-tolerated, moisturizing alcohol, not to be confused with monohydric, drying (drinking) alcohol. Glycerin can be obtained from vegetable or animal fats. It is a clear, odorless liquid. Glycerin is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture. This is why glycerin moisturizes the skin. It is a natural component of the skin and is one of the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMF).

Although glycerin is often overshadowed by more well-known ingredients like hyaluronic acid, it offers a range of benefits that make it a true all-rounder in skincare. Don't be misled if some natural cosmetics brands try to scare you away from glycerin by using claims like "glycerin-free."

• Moisturizing: Glycerin binds water, thus preserving the skin's moisture content. This results in supple, plump, and radiant skin. Compared to other moisturizers, glycerin is relatively small and can penetrate very well into the deeper layers of the skin, ensuring they are thoroughly hydrated.
• Barrier-strengthening: Glycerin ensures that cell membranes remain healthy and maintains intracellular lipids (fats within the cell). Very dry, flaky skin, in particular, benefits enormously from glycerin because it lacks moisture. The more glycerin in the skin, the stronger the skin barrier.
• Anti-inflammatory: Glycerin inhibits inflammation in the skin and reduces redness and irritation.
• Antibacterial: Glycerin has an antibacterial effect and can therefore help with persistent "impurities" and acne.
• Good for sensitive skin: Glycerin reduces the irritation potential of active ingredients or surfactants (cleansing agents).

Glycerin is a well-tolerated ingredient suitable for all skin types. It is particularly well-tolerated by sensitive skin and is ideal for treating skin conditions such as rosacea , eczema, and similar conditions.

However, glycerin (like all moisturizers) is not suitable during acute perioral dermatitis (over-treated skin). In this case, only a complete omission of the product is effective.

Unfortunately, fear-mongering marketing, which demonizes glycerin, is still prevalent. Products are then advertised as being "glycerin-free".

As you probably know, at Xeno we have one of the strictest lists of ingredients we avoid. Yet we still use glycerin in many products – why?

Claim: "Glycerin dries out the skin" - What's the truth?

Yes, a pure glycerin solution dries out the skin. However, you won't be able to buy one of those easily.

In a diluted solution – that is, glycerin in a skincare product – there is no danger. On the contrary: glycerin can be very beneficial for dry, stressed skin.

The myth probably stems from the fact that no distinction is made between these two very different formulations.

Another reason for the fear of glycerin is its incorrect use. Improper handling of glycerin products, especially moisturizing serums, can lead to temporary dryness of the skin.

Glycerin draws moisture from deep within the skin to the upper layer, ensuring that the stratum corneum is well moisturized.

The stratum corneum is the outer barrier of your skin, ensuring that the lower layers are well protected. Your skin is only resilient when the stratum corneum is well-hydrated.

If you don't apply a cream containing oils over your glycerin serum, the moisture will evaporate into the air. This is because oils help to lock the moisture in, like a protective layer, where it belongs in the skin.

This effect is possible with all water-based serums containing moisturizers that are oil-free. Application errors can also lead to dry skin with hyaluronic acid and similar ingredients.

These problems often don't occur with a cream because a cream usually consists of moisturizers like glycerin or hyaluronic acid and fats. The protective barrier is, so to speak, already integrated.

So next time you use a moisturizing serum, don't forget your cream; then it will work with glycerin and other ingredients. Your skin will thank you with plenty of rest and a healthy skin barrier.

Claim: "High concentrations of glycerin are harmful to the skin"

Glycerin is typically used in concentrations up to 10%. This is because glycerin is a very sticky ingredient. A serum with significantly more glycerin would no longer feel pleasant on the skin. If that were the goal, many fillers or silicones would be needed to make the product easy to apply.

These amounts of glycerin are not necessary for healthy hydration of the stratum corneum, even in sensitive skin. On the contrary, too much moisture would be detrimental, as it would cause the stratum corneum to swell, potentially leading to perioral dermatitis.

An exception is made for medical creams for people with chronic, weeping, bleeding eczema and very severe, treatment-requiring flare-ups of atopic dermatitis. These skin conditions benefit from glycerin concentrations of up to 30%, as the skin is chronically dehydrated.

Glycerin might not be as fancy as other humectants, but you shouldn't demonize it, given its fantastic skin-friendly properties. And if you know how to use glycerin, you can achieve a lot with this moisturizer.

Fearmongering is a marketing strategy used in cosmetics advertising to unsettle customers and encourage them to buy products. This often involves making exaggerated or even false claims about the negative effects of certain ingredients on the skin or health, or suggesting such effects.

Examples:

• "Skincare without glycerin"
  
• "Glycerin dries out the skin"
  
• "Parabens promote cancer!"

Fear mongering can lead to anxiety and insecurity in some customers, which tempts them to buy unnecessary products.

Criticism: Fear mongering is heavily criticized by consumer advocates and ethicists, as it is seen as a manipulative and unfair marketing strategy.

At Xeno, we don't believe in fear-mongering marketing; instead, we focus on providing information, as demonstrated by this article about glycerin. This way, you can make an informed and healthy decision for yourself.