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Lactic Acid: How much lactic acid your skin can tolerate

Posted by Lara Schimweg on
Lactic Acid als weiße Tropfen

INCI: Lactic Acid

Effect:

regulates the pH value

It has an exfoliating effect at an acidic pH value between 3-4.

Compatibility: very good

What is lactic acid?

Lactic acid , also known as lactate, is a cosmetic ingredient. It is a natural acid found in milk and fermented foods. Its INCI name is Lactic Acid . It belongs to the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).

Lactic acid occurs naturally in the skin. It moisturizes and is used as an acid peel or pH regulator.

Lactic acid effect

  • Peeling effect: Lactic acid removes dead skin cells, refining and smoothing the complexion. Lactic acid improves skin firmness, thickness, and reduces wrinkles.
  • Moisturizing: Lactic acid binds moisture in the skin.
  • pH-regulating: Lactic acid is acidic and therefore suitable for adjusting cosmetic products to a (slightly) acidic pH value.

Tolerance of lactic acid

Compatibility of lactic acid as a pH regulator

When used to stabilize the pH level, lactic acid has no exfoliating effect and can be used daily without hesitation. Even very sensitive skin tolerates lactic acid very well as a pH regulator. A slightly acidic pH between 5 and 6 helps maintain the skin's protective acid mantle and preserve its natural microbiome.

Tolerance of lactic acid as an acid peel

Lactic acid is one of the best-known and most thoroughly researched AHAs when used as an acid peel. Compared to glycolic acid (the strongest AHA), lactic acid has larger molecules. This is particularly beneficial for more sensitive skin types, as the larger molecules of lactic acid do not penetrate the skin as deeply. Compared to glycolic acid, lactic acid is less irritating to the skin during exfoliation. Whether lactic acid is irritating for very sensitive skin depends on the concentration. 5%–12% concentrations are generally well-tolerated. 5% lactic acid is not as harsh an exfoliant because it only works in the epidermis. From 12% and above, lactic acid also penetrates deeper, down to the dermis.

If you absolutely want to use an AHA as a peel, lactic acid and mandelic acid (ideal for acne and rosacea/couperose ) are considered the most tolerable.

While lactic acid is significantly milder than glycolic acid, it's not the gentlest way to exfoliate the skin. If you're looking for a very gentle exfoliant for very sensitive skin (rosacea/couperose, eczema, etc.), you should consider enzyme peels or PHA peels .

Because natural enzymes such as protease and lipase or gluconolactone (PHA) are significantly more tolerable for sensitive skin.

Lipase Lipase: a body-like enzyme
Protease

Protease: a body-like enzyme

Brown glass bottle with PHA Gluconolactone: PHA is the most tolerable acid peel.

Lactic acid application

Tip: Exfoliants, whether enzymes or acids, are best tolerated if you exfoliate a maximum of 1-2 times a week. Only if your skin tolerates it very well should you increase to 3 times a week. More than that is not healthy.

Start with a low concentration of lactic acid and increase it if your skin reacts well. The most tolerable concentrations are between 5-12%. Ideally, your product will also contain soothing ingredients to ensure your skin tolerates the acid optimally from the start.

Lactic acid origin

The world's largest quantity of lactic acid is currently produced through plant fermentation, but it can also be produced synthetically. Lactic acid is biodegradable and mostly vegan. Legend has it that Cleopatra bathed in sour milk in ancient Egypt. Sour milk was the source for an exfoliating lactic acid bath at that time.

Products containing Lactic Acid

These products use vegan lactic acid to regulate the pH value.

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