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Azelain (Azelaic Acid): Active ingredient for acne and rosacea

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azelaic acid

INCI: Azelaic Acid

Effect: reduces redness, has a decongestant, anti-inflammatory effect

Tolerance: good

Azelaic Acid is a carboxylic acid. It is neither an AHA nor a BHA. Azelain occurs naturally in wheat, rye and barley.

Azelaic acid effect

Azelaic acid is a potent active ingredient and is commonly used to treat severe acne and rosacea . Similar to Zinc PCA , it acts against the acne-causing Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). Dermatologists often prescribe up to 20% azelaic acid for acne.


Azelaic acid down- regulates the skin's oil production and ensures that the cells grow healthily and no longer become clogged as often. Because that is often a problem with acne. Azelaic acid also lightens pimple marks , which is very beneficial for people with acne, as the pimple marks can be treated at the same time.


In the treatment of rosacea , medicine makes use of the anti-inflammatory effect of azelaic acid. Up to 10-15% azelaic acid can be found in prescription creams like Skinoren or Soolantra .


Unfortunately, azelaic acid also has side effects due to its strong effect. Regular use can cause burning or drying of the skin. When treating a skin disease, however, these side effects are usually accepted because the skin disease should not progress further.

Rosacea is a skin condition characterized by redness

Rosacea care: avoid triggers and reduce redness

Woman with rosacea: Flat areas of redness on the cheeks and eyelids

What is rosacea or couperose: treatment and experiences

Azelain Alternative: mild azelain derivative

A milder derivative of azelaic acid is the azelain derivative Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate . This derivative does not have the side effects described above.

INCI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Effect: reduces redness, has a decongestant, anti-inflammatory effect

Tolerance: very good

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is suitable for milder forms of rosacea or for those with a tendency to "blemishes" and pimples .


The azelain derivative is a moisturizing and a great proven ingredient with anti-inflammatory and anti-acne effects with no side effects. It also has a whitening effect on pimple marks by inhibiting tyrosinase (a well-known enzyme needed to form melanin) and has a sebum-regulating effect. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a promising multifunctional ingredient that can help with hyperpigmentation, mild acne or rosacea.

Products with a mild azelain derivative (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate)

Other ingredients that are suitable for rosacea

Horse Chestnut: Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Squalane (Squalane): This skin-identical fat makes the skin supple

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