Ingredients
Azelain (Azelaic Acid): Active ingredient for acne and rosacea
Posted by Xeno Team on
Azelaine variants in this article:
azelaic acid
INCI: Azelaic Acid
Effect: reduces redness, has a decongestant and anti-inflammatory effect
Compatibility: good
Azelaic acid is a carboxylic acid. It belongs neither to the AHAs nor to the BHAs. Azelaic acid occurs naturally in wheat, rye, and barley.
Azelaic acid effect
Azelaic acid is a potent active ingredient frequently used to treat severe acne and rosacea . Similar to zinc PCA , it works against the acne-causing bacterium Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). Dermatologists often prescribe up to 20% azelaic acid for acne.
Azelaic acid reduces the skin's sebum production , promoting healthy cell growth and preventing clogged pores. This is a common problem with acne. Azelaic acid also lightens acne scars , which is very beneficial for people with acne, as it allows for simultaneous treatment of these scars.
In rosacea treatment, medicine utilizes the anti-inflammatory effect of azelaic acid. Prescription creams, such as Skinoren , contain up to 10-15% azelaic acid.
Unfortunately, azelaic acid, due to its strong effects, also has side effects. Regular use can cause skin burning or dryness. However, these side effects are usually accepted when treating a skin condition, as the goal is to prevent the condition from progressing.
Rosacea care: Avoid triggers and reduce redness
What is rosacea or couperose: treatment and experiences
Azelaine Alternative: mild azelaine derivative
A milder derivative of azelaic acid is the azelaine derivative potassium azeloyl diglycinate . This derivative does not have the side effects described above.
INCI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Effect: reduces redness, has a decongestant and anti-inflammatory effect
Compatibility: very good
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is suitable for milder cases of rosacea or for a tendency towards "blemishes" and pimples .
The azelaic derivative moisturizes and is a great, proven ingredient with anti-inflammatory and acne-fighting properties without side effects. It also lightens acne scars by inhibiting tyrosinase (a well-known enzyme required for melanin production) and has a sebum-regulating effect. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is a promising multi-functional ingredient that can be helpful for hyperpigmentation, mild acne, or rosacea.
Products containing a mild azelaine derivative (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate)
Other ingredients suitable for rosacea
Lara Schimweg
Lara is the founder of Xeno and develops the skincare products. She studied sports science and health research and is a trained registered nurse. Lara made her first cream 20 years ago and is passionate about skincare and ingredients . Lara has rosacea and very sensitive skin.
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